Tree Removal Ferntree Gully.

It runs from a few hundred dollars for a small backyard tree up to several thousand for a big eucalypt leaning over a house or a retaining wall. On the foothill blocks the slope and access usually push the price more than the tree itself does. Ring us or send the form and we'll give you an indicative figure quickly.

Yes. We're qualified, locally based arborists and we carry public liability insurance. We can send a current Certificate of Currency before we start.

We turn around a quote on most enquiries the same day and book non-urgent work within the week. For storm damage and dangerous trees we run same-day callouts across Ferntree Gully and the foothills.

Yes. That's most of what we do here. A tree tight against a house, a wall, a fence or a pool gets climbed and rigged so it comes down piece by piece, with every limb lowered on rope. We work out the drop and the haul-out on the slope before a saw runs.

Yes. The blocks at the foot of the Dandenongs are steep and treed, and a lot of them have narrow uphill driveways. We bring tracked gear that gets up the grade and plan how the wood comes off the block as part of the quote.

Yes. We run same-day callouts across Ferntree Gully and the foothills for limbs torn down in wind, trees over driveways, and trunks that have split or shifted after a storm. We make the tree safe first, then book the full removal.

It's a separate line. Put it on if you want the stump gone, leave it off if you don't. We grind below the surface so you can returf, repave or replant the spot.

A small backyard tree is often a half day. A medium tree that needs climbing and rigging on a slope is usually a full day. Big trees, multiple trees, or really tight access can run across two days or more. The written quote tells you what to expect.

Yes. We chip the green waste on site, rake the slope off and blow the paths clean. Chip can stay as mulch, get spread, or be hauled away. Hardwood logs can be cut for firewood and left on request.

We check the tree before any cutting. If wildlife is in there we pause, reschedule, or work around the active nest or hollow. These bush-edge trees often have hollows, so we look first.

Yes. A lot of blocks here back onto bushland near the national park and run real fire risk. We clear ladder fuels, low scrub and overhanging canopy in the zone around the house and price the whole site as one job.

Yes. We'll quote the work and walk both sides through what's involved. We won't start until both owners agree on the job and who's paying.

Storm damage to your house, fence or car is usually covered, including the make-safe work and the debris removal tied to the claim. Taking out a healthy tree because you want it gone, or routine pruning, usually isn't. Ring your insurer before you authorise anything, and ask us for a written job report and Certificate of Currency to attach to the claim.

Get a current public liability Certificate of Currency out of them, have the tree priced on the block rather than down the phone, and check the quote splits out the access, the climb, the rigging, the chip and the cleanup as their own lines. Anyone after cash before they start, walk away. The genuine crews roll up in a marked truck and hold current chainsaw and elevated-work tickets. The bloke knocking at your door in a plain ute, odds are he carries no cover at all.

A real quote shows separate lines for site setup, the climber or EWP, rigging and lowering, on-site chipping, optional stump grinding below the surface, haul-out of chip or logs, and GST. A single round number with no breakdown usually means the price can move once they're on site.

Was it standing on your block? Then it's down to you. Home and contents policies generally foot the bill once the tree has hit something insured, so phone the insurer first and grab photos while nothing has shifted. Came off the neighbour's side instead? You'll still organise getting it shifted, then chase the bill back through your own policy where there's damage, or theirs where you can show they let it go.

Often, yes. The foothill and bush-interface streets around here are frequently covered by vegetation protection controls, and bigger trees, native bushland and registered trees usually need approval before they come out. Dead, dying or dangerous trees, fruit trees and small trees are often exempt. Always confirm with Knox City Council before the job, since clearing protected vegetation without approval can carry a substantial fine.

The saw work is the cheap, quick part. What you're paying for is everything around it. Felling a tree onto open, level ground takes no time. Bring that same trunk down beside a dwelling or above a wall, on a grade where it can't simply drop, and a climber has to rope each section off and set it down by hand. Add the kit, the hours up the tree and the cover behind the crew, and that's where the figure comes from.

Whatever you like, with one catch around the old stump hole. Pack it with topsoil, not the leftover grindings. Those grindings sink as they break down, rob the bed of nitrogen for a while, and on a grade a sunken hollow becomes the start of a gully. Going to turf? Roll couch or buffalo over screened topsoil and keep the water up to it daily for ten days. Going to a garden bed? Let the ground settle through a growing season before you commit anything you'd be sad to lose.